Thrillist New York: Mamma Bia!

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Thrillist New York
Monday August 3, 2009

Bia Garden

154 Orchard St, between Stanton and Rivington; LES; 212.780.0010

The world's long appropriated Germany's greatest inventions
-- France, America, and Japan all made bank building cars,
and India now totally owns wildly bushy moustaches. Now the
Vietnamese are taking the biergarten, at Bia Garden.

From frighteningly prolific BarBao chef/architect Michael
Huynh, Bia mashes up Nam's also frighteningly prolific
street food with a space and beverage program inspired by
Germany's beloved brew hauses, plus a touch of the covert:
pass through a minute, subterranean take-out counter, then
an industrial steel, peepholed door leading through a
walk-in fridge to a tiny dining area rocking walls pastiched
with Asian beer ads, then finally to a 50-seat,
half-covered, communal table-dominated garden, with exposed
brick & beige cinder block walls covered by fruit trees and
other flora. The social-minded brew scheme borders on
genius, with an all-Asian line-up (Tsingtao, Kingfisher,
Tiger, 33, Sapporo, Taj Mahal...) served as six-, 12-, and
24-packs, delivered in ice-filled metal coolers; charges are
based on consumption, so...expect to pay for every last one,
if you're cool. Meanwhile, suds-friendly grub starts with a
roving cart proffering rotating $5 bites, then moves to
small dishes like Dum Nem Sausage (duck liver, pine nut,
anchovy sauce), BBQ pork hand rolls, and
lemongrass/glangal/chili "Shark On Fire"; hungrier hippos
can go for Spicy Curry Wild Boar, BBQ Rib on Lamb Belly w/
jalapeno cucumber relish, whole dungeness crab, baked fish,
and a spicy cress/red onion/Dijon number called "Shaking
Beef" (you'd shake too if everyone were crowding around you
with knives).

Bia plans to soft open any day now, but caution that they
could be delayed up to a week; they plan to post updates on
their Facebook page, showing they've also appropriated
Germany's hardest learned lesson, the importance of
front-line communication.

While you await your injection of sweet Asian booze, get
your rocks off to this here menu:
http://themove.thrillist.com/link.php?M=2181171&N=227095&C=25f0fb7663659a52572fbc99fe5fd818&L=50997

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