| By Cheryl Baehr If you want to understand what chef and restaurant owner Chris Bolyard means when he says he approaches butchery from a cook's perspective, you should try his fried bologna sandwich. As close to the thin, pasty, red-synthetic-casing-wrapped meat found in the grocery store's deli case as canned ham is to prosciutto di Parma, the version served at Bolyard's Meat & Provisions is revelatory. What would typically be thought of as throwaway cuts from breaking down a cow are transformed into stunning hunks of sliced meat with a rustic texture akin to a summer sausage. Garlicky, salty and about a quarter inch in thickness, the beef, pork and bacon concoction is stacked onto grilled sourdough bread with molten American cheese and rich remoulade sauce like an impossibly gooey grilled cheese. Chow chow, composed of pickled vegetables, and briny dill pickles take a sandwich that could have been overly decadent and balance it with their vibrant, vinegary taste. No mere culinary mortal could give a glow-up of this magnitude to such an oft-disregarded processed meat. Read more | 
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