‘We don’t want to be Dubai’
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There’s so much to love about Albania. It is, without doubt, one of the kindest and most welcoming countries I’ve visited in Europe. It is also one of the poorest; one that could gain immensely from the economic benefits of tourism. But I, like the thousands of Albanians who have been protesting on the streets of Tirana over the past two and a half weeks, don’t believe this tourism should come from Ivanka Trump and Jared Kushner.
I’m writing today from the coastal city of Vlorë – admittedly not the prettiest spot on this stretch of Albania’s southern coast, but full of character, and nestled beside some of the Mediterranean’s most important ecological sites. This morning I took a boat over to Sazan Island, which sits around 18km from the mainland. It was this island that Ivanka spoke breathlessly about on a podcast at the end of May, claiming that she and her husband Jared Kushner were working on a real estate project here on a “massive scale”. She told the host how she came across the island while on a friend’s yacht sailing in the Mediterranean and had returned with “some of the greatest living architects of our time”. Her husband Jared Kushner had already sparked outrage among Albanians after revealing plans backed by his private equity firm for a luxury resort on the Zvërnec Peninsula across from Sazan Island, with talk of 10,000 hotel rooms.
The proposed development would be on protected land that’s home to over 200 bird species, including flamingos and Dalmatian pelicans, as well as 70 endangered species, such as the monk seal and loggerhead sea turtle. The Albanians I spoke to were clear: they have no problem with tourism development – they actively welcome tourists to their country – but Ivanka and Jared’s resorts have no place here. Tourism development should respect Albania’s cultural and natural heritage, and should improve the lives of its citizens and communities, rather than profiting foreign investors and a few wealthy individuals.
As is so often the case, the first local opinion I heard was offered by a cab driver. As I arrived in Tirana and we drove into the city from the airport, Tony told me about the hotel he hoped to run on the outskirts of the capital. Having lived in Italy for several years, he returned home to find a fledgling tourism industry and planned to run a place where visitors could stay for a night or two after arriving in Tirana before heading off to the coast or mountains. Then he laughed, shrugged and said: “But I’m poor. So who knows if I can do it.”
When done right, tourism can have huge economic and cultural benefits, and Albania has so much to offer travellers – from a lively capital city to the sweeping Adriatic coastline, the lakes of Butrint National Park and the Valbona Valley trails.
So I would certainly encourage you to travel to Albania. But please, stay in Tony’s hotel – not Jared’s.
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Entry-exit system could be suspended in ‘worst-case’ scenarios
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Lumo to introduce Starlink wifi across East Coast trains
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Ferries to Europe are getting new ‘sleeper lounges’
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New Swedish train runs 600km along the coast
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Ant puppets swarm Menorca in anti-tourism protest
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A Better Place in Sindang is one of the city’s newest hotels – and by far one of its most design-forward.
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This retreat in South Tyrol is just the place to find out whether the wellness obsession is enlightening or exhausting.
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Once entranced by the region as a child, Bill Borrows returns to see whether it holds the same allure.
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The cost of a missed flight
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It finally happened. After a few near misses, several jogs to departure gates and years of telling everyone there is simply no need to get to the airport with more than two hours to spare … I missed a flight.
Due to fly out of Gatwick South Terminal last Sunday evening, I saw that there were problems with the trains running out of Victoria, and as the delays turned into cancellations, I got off the bus and hopped into an Uber, baulking at the £150 fare. As we sat in traffic outside Gatwick, I watched as other passengers jumped out of cars and raced down the motorway hard shoulder. On arrival, I sprinted through the South Terminal with a glimmer of hope (thanks to the fact I’d booked a fast-track pass for security in the cab for £6). I then watched woefully as my hand luggage was flagged for screening and the ‘Gate Closed’ sign flicked up against my flight.
Unfortunately, I had passed into airport purgatory by this point – can’t go forward, can’t go back. I was directed to the airline help desk (there was no one there, but there was a phone). Since it was a busy day for missed flights, it took an hour and a half to be escorted out of the airport, by which point hotel prices were surging due to demand. Both the Premier Inn and Sofitel were full, but I managed to book a room in the Ibis for £145. Add to that a new Wizz Air flight to Tirana the following morning (£235), and a £5 bus each way to my airport hotel (Uber was trying to charge me £45 for the five-minute drive), and you get a painfully expensive (£546) day of travel.
When should you arrive at the airport? Our travel team reveal how long they leave
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I first popped my cruise cherry last spring when I took a week-long Norwegian fjords cruise with P&O aboard Iona – and I’m officially a convert. Launched just a few years ago, this modern ship feels more like a stylish hotel than a traditional cruise liner. We booked a mini suite, which was surprisingly affordable, and loved having the extra space. Alongside the bedroom area and balcony, there was even a conservatory-style seating area, making it feel wonderfully luxurious.
Exploring the ethereal Norwegian fjords was unforgettable – a must if you haven’t experienced them before. But it wasn’t just the scenery that won me over. The huge choice of restaurants, entertainment and onboard activities means there’s almost too much to keep you occupied when you’re not ashore. For families, the onboard crèche is another fantastic perk.
When I embark on my next cruise, my packing essentials will definitely include non-slip flip-flops (perfect if you’re partial to a hot tub), comfortable walking shoes (you’ll be amazed how quickly the steps add up on a large ship and during excursions), a good reusable water bottle (Iona has plenty of filling stations dotted around the ship), and clothing for all weathers. A light linen shirt and a lightweight waterproof jacket are ideal options. Of course, formal wear is also part of the cruise experience, with dressier evenings adding a touch of glamour to certain nights.
If you’re looking for something light-hearted to read while you sail, The Cruise Club by Caroline James is the perfect companion. Full of humour and escapism, it’s ideal holiday reading. Alternatively, if you’re considering a European cruise, Fodor’s European Ports of Call is packed with carefully curated recommendations on what to see and do in some of Europe’s top cruise destinations, helping you make the most of every stop.
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Budget is best on sleeper trains
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My colleague Natalie Wilson has just returned from Berlin, having travelled there from Paris on an overnight train – a mode of transport that has become increasingly popular in recent years. She cheerfully described it as “the Travelodge of sleeper trains” (you can read more about her journey in our Sunday newsletter). To me, that actually sounds rather appealing.
The last overnight train I took was the rather more suave Orient Express, which carried me from Venice to Rome. It was good fun until a slew of technical problems meant the Wi-Fi stopped working, the air conditioning failed and then the toilet broke. Of course, these things happen, but when you’re mid-journey there’s not much you can do about them – whether you’ve paid bottom dollar or thousands of pounds. Looking back, I suspect I’d have been just as happy on the Travelodge of the rails.
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Would you rather holiday in a hot or cool climate this summer?
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With another heatwave set to sizzle Europe this weekend, I want to know the temperature of your ideal trip. Are you headed on holiday in the heat, with swimming and al fresco dining? Or are cooler climes calling for hikes, city breaks and bike tours? Vote by selecting the buttons above.
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Last week, with the Fifa World Cup under way across North America, I asked whether you’d rather holiday in Canada or Mexico. The result wasn’t even close: 80 per cent of readers chose Canada, with its Rockies, glacial lakes and vast wilderness proving more appealing than Mexico’s beaches, cuisine and ancient ruins.
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Unwind at the Oulton Hall Hotel. This elegant Grade II listed mansion is set in acres of beautiful Yorkshire countryside. Make the most of your break with breakfast, a cream tea, dinner, four drinks vouchers per person, late 1pm checkout and access to the health club. Find out more.
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Dreaming of adventure? Wendy Wu Tours have some fantastic deals on flight-inclusive tour packages. Book by 30 June to secure your savings.
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Pocket big savings on business class flights in the British Airways sale. Fares start from just £95 each way.
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Experience a charming stay at the iconic Mermaid Inn in Rye, with breakfast. Valid for selected Sunday–Thursday stays until 31 October.
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Take out an Independent Premium subscription and unlock expert travel analysis, insider tips and the best deals to help you make the most of every trip.
Join now with our introductory offer: just £1 for 7 months
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