Two decades ago, hot and weary after several months of backpacking, I walked barefoot with my friend across the white sands of the Caribbean coast of Mexico. Looking out across the turquoise sea, without another person in sight, I felt sure that this must be the most beautiful beach in the world. Our bus had arrived in a little town called Tulum, where we’d dropped our rucksacks at a hostel and headed to the beach to swim in the waves and snooze on the sand, before exploring the mystical ruins of the Mayan civilisation that watched over the beach.
Ten years later, I was excited to return to this very spot. I was living in the United States and knew that Tulum had blown up as a tourist destination, but I wasn’t quite prepared for what I found. Not only could I no longer see this beach for the newly erected buildings that lined the shore, but when I tried to enter one of the hotels, I was informed there would be a minimum spend of around $200 if I wanted to eat breakfast here. Turning away – with a gnawing sense that I may be “part of the problem” – I winced at the fact that now this beach “belonged” to this hotel. This was painful for me to hear, but how much worse must it be for the locals who can no longer visit the beaches that are part of their home, so that tourists could do sunrise yoga, drink matcha lattes and embrace their spirituality?
I haven’t returned to Tulum since, but I thought of the town earlier this week when we reported on how visitors to a number of Italian beaches now have to pre-book their patch, in much the same way that you’d make a restaurant reservation, paying a few euros for the privilege. In fact, Sardinia’s La Pelosa beach is now fully booked for advance slots until 15 September, with visitors paying €3.50 a pop. Last week, we also wrote about beach club operators in Puglia, Italy, who are complaining about tourists bringing picnics to private beaches, claiming they threaten the region’s “image of excellence”. Governor of Puglia, Antonio Decaro, insisted the visitors should be allowed to bring food and drink from home. In a Facebook video, he said: “We are working to make the sea, more and more, an experience of freedom, for Apulians and for those who come from outside to discover this region. The sea is a common commodity, it cannot become a luxury.”
While I appreciate that visitor numbers must be controlled and I am aware of the problems caused by littering, along with the pressure heavy footfall can cause to the environment, I agree with Mr Decaro that the beach should not be a luxury. It makes me uncomfortable that any of us have the right to lay claim on a piece of sand, especially when it’s not even in our home country. This summer, for my beach breaks, I’ll be aiming for spots without book-able slots or a minimum spend – and where I can eat my own sandwiches.
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Sardinia’s La Pelosa beach is fully booked for advance slots until 15 September (Getty Images)
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Popular Spanish airport to undergo £985m upgrade
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Why flights were diverted amid chaos at Gatwick airport
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Free UK summer holiday train tickets: Who is eligible?
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Derelict UK theme park could be transformed into luxury resort
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New ticket barrier technology to prevent train fare dodgers
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The French capital may be sweltering, but summer is also one of the best times to visit.
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On 12 August, the best solar eclipse visible from the UK in almost 27 years is set to occur in our skies.
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Whether a romantic weekend or a trip that made it out of the group chat, Amsterdam has hotels for every type of traveller.
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European countries without the entry-exit system
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From touchdown at Tirana airport to sitting in the back of a taxi headed for my hotel on Sunday night was under 30 minutes – easily the smoothest arrival I’ve had in a European country this year. While my experiences with the EU entry-exit system (EES) have by no means been terrible so far (nothing more than a slightly longer queue – an hour at most), it was very pleasant to arrive in a European country without having to think about it at the border. While I would fully recommend Albania – both for the efficient airport system and the beautiful country – there are plenty of other countries where EES is not in place, since the system only applies to Schengen countries.
I’m writing this newsletter in the mountain town of Kruševo in North Macedonia, also a non-Schengen country. What I’ve seen from this country so far is beautiful lakes, breathtaking mountains, friendly little towns and welcoming locals with a great sense of humour. Not only would you avoid EES on a North Macedonian holiday, but it’s also an incredibly affordable break, with Wizz Air flights to the capital Skopje around £100 (with luggage) and decent hotels for under £50. Other Balkan countries – including Serbia, Montenegro, and Bosnia and Herzegovina – also won’t require you to pass through EES.
And then, of course, there’s Greece which, despite being a Schengen country, has rather wisely decided to suspend EES for the peak summer periods. From the reports I’ve heard, this has made the arrival process at Greek airports largely efficient and stress-free.
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Now is the perfect time to book with Celebrity Cruises, with at least 60% off your second guest and savings of up to £900 per stateroom in their Europe Sale. Choose from a range of itineraries, including the breathtaking fjords of Norway and the sun-soaked Canary Islands. Find out more.
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Escape to France for less with a quick hop across the Channel. Short breaks with DFDS start from just £119 per car with up to four people.
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Celebrate New Year at the four-star New Place Hotel with breakfast, a welcome drink, a four-course dinner, midnight toast and a DJ until 1am.
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Take out an Independent Premium subscription and unlock expert travel analysis, insider tips and the best deals to help you make the most of every trip.
Join now with our introductory offer: just £1 for 6 months
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Can I fly with a power bank?
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Another week, another warning over flying with power banks. The UK Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) is alerting passengers to the rising risk posed by lithium batteries on planes, particularly when in checked luggage. It says there are now around two incidents involving lithium batteries a week, and reports of overheating or malfunctioning passenger devices nearly doubled between 2024 and 2025.
Power banks and vapes contain lithium batteries and are some of the highest-risk items, according to the CAA. You can fly with these devices, but they must always be carried with you in the cabin and never placed in your checked luggage.
Other key points to know are that you cannot fly with more than two power banks, and you should never charge the power bank itself while on the plane. Some flights may allow you to charge other devices from the power bank, but it’s best to check with the cabin crew to be sure.
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Should UK seaside towns introduce fines for people wearing only swimwear in town centres?
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Following the introduction of a ban on bare chests in the Italian village of Varenna, with offenders fined between €50 and €200, I want to know whether you think UK beach destinations should introduce fines for people going topless in town centres. Is swanning around shirtless permitted at the seaside? Or is just swimwear unacceptable on sunny days? Vote by selecting the buttons above.
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It seems the idea of 22 hours in the air didn’t appeal. When we asked whether you’d take a 22-hour flight, 70 per cent of you said no, suggesting most readers would rather break up a long-haul trip than fly it in one go.
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Someone asked me the other day if I was a beach or city person. The answer is that I’m both. In fact, I’m partial to almost every kind of adventure!
But when it comes to choosing between the beach and the city, the best thing is that in Europe we are lucky enough to enjoy both. Take one of the most famous beach-city breaks, Barcelona, with its huge stretch of sandy beach that’s perfect for a lie down after exploring Gaudí’s architectural wonders. Or there’s the old-world opulence of Nice, with its 7-kilometre seafront promenade, and Athens, Greece’s vibrant capital, where the nearby Athens Riviera is lined with beautiful beaches.
Yes, we are lucky enough to be just a short flight away from a range of European destinations that offer the perfect mix of city adventures and beach escapes.
If you’re planning a trip and flying with a budget airline, it’s important to make sure your hand luggage fits the requirements. This Cabin Max under-seat suitcase is a strong choice for a short European trip and meets budget airline cabin requirements, including Ryanair’s. Or, if you’re after something else for your travels, the John Lewis suitcase sale is well worth a look, with everything from weekend bags to large hold luggage suitcases.
And if you want to plan ahead for your European getaway, Lonely Planet’s 100 Weekends in Europe is currently reduced and features 100 short-trip itineraries with maps to inspire your next escape.
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