Thrillist Philadelphia: How Could You Bistro Heartless?

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Thrillist Philadelphia
Monday August 3, 2009

Avril

134 Bala Ave, between City Line & Montgomery; Bala Cynwyd;
610.667.2626

Spouses who work together can bring out the worst in each
other, like Ike & Tina or Jon & Kate -- if they hadn't had
all that workplace tension, just imagine how many kids
they'd have! Bringing out their culinary best, the couple
behind Avril.

Opening Wednesday, Avril's a 48-seat, white tablecloth,
corner BYO from a long-time Philly chef and his ex-Daily
News food editor wife, who've outfitted their Bala bistro
with black leather banquettes, Provencal-inspired artwork,
and beaded lighting, and offer dishes they say're inspired
by the cuisines of southern France and northern Italy, which
you think is just Bologna. Savory pastry-based offerings
from the menu's "Boulangerie" section include "Petit" dishes
like crab-stuffed crepes w/ artichoke & asparagus gratin,
and wild mushroom barquette w/ pate sable & sea scallops in
bearnaise, while "Grande" fare ranges from seared Muscovy
duck breast w/ peach & endive tarte tatin, to profiterole of
warm asparagus, hearts of palm, & lobster in mustard-sage
vinaigrette, to grilled sausage, radicchio, & chickpea
spinach saute in a socca, a chickpea crepe from France,
where they actually call it futbol. On the "Bistro" side,
smaller plates include four-spice chicken drumsticks fried
in a chili Marsala date sauce; lavender-scented grilled
shrimp, scallops, & calamari; and a liver-laden,
espresso-infused mousse w/ seared foie gras on brioche,
while larger offerings run from roast pork w/ roasted garlic
corn pudding, and shoulder-cut tenderloin w/ frites, to
rabbit braised in white wine -- which, if you gotta go,
sounds like a breezy way to do it.

Although initially serving only dinner, Avril plans to
institute Tues-Fri lunch service, Sunday brunch, and a
"Bombance sur Dimanche" Sunday evening feast, offering four
prix fixe menus ranging from three to six courses, served
"family style". Unless you've got eight kids.

Peep the opening night dinner menu here -- and check out the
lunch and brunch rundowns while you're there:
http://themove.thrillist.com/link.php?M=2181171&N=227097&C=25f0fb7663659a52572fbc99fe5fd818&L=51043

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