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2011/01/04

DEN: You And Lou

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Thrillist Denver
Tuesday January 4, 2011

Lou's Food Bar
American pwns French cuisine
1851 W 38th Ave; Highland; 303.458.0336

It's not uncommon for Americans to commandeer French techniques: from the kissing, to the toast, as obnoxiously clanking your glass while people try to enjoy their dinners must've been invented over there. For an American using French methods to make dining more pleasant instead, check out Lou's Food Bar.

Frank Bonanno's newest, Lou's is a rustic 98-seater rocking walls scrawled with select hand-written menu offerings and a wood-accented ceiling, and boasting a menu which represents his "take on American country food with French style" -- perfect, as shoulder e-pig-lets are hot this season. Starters include escargot with garlic/parsley butter/Gruyere gratinee, a cheese plate with Brie de Meaux/ chantal/ blue, and a homemade chevre coated in honey/ lavender/ rosemary, as well as pâtés galore (from pork to a rabbit/chicken combo), lump blue crab cakes & remoulade, and thyme/ potatoes "Mel's Mussels La Cagouille", though not Mel Brooks' Mussels La Cagouille, as they completely atrophied 1,917 years ago. Continental meaty mains include fried organic chicken, duck confit a l'orange, carnita enchiladas with rice & beans, spaghetti with mozzarella-stuffed meatballs, and homemade sausages including garlic/fennel pork on white bean ragout, veal brats on choucroute, and venison cheddar -- also what rappers use to make it rein.

For drinks, they've got Franco-themed cocktails created by the Green Russell's head barman (including the double rum/tamarind puree/house orgeat "Mount Pelee"), a keg pouring their house red & white, and an 80+ bottle list drawing mainly from France and California, the latter following the former's invention of making hard work toast.

Photos by Duke Blend

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-----------------Morning Quickie------------------
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