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Thrillist New York
Monday May 4, 2009
Table 8
25 Cooper Square, at 5th; 212.475.3400
While gazing upon the Cooper Square Hotel's shimmering,
glass-covered facades, folks will likely have one of two
distinct reactions: curse that gentrification has pushed the
beatniks, folkies and punks out of their rightful home,
or..."I sure could go for some skate wing". If you're the
latter, hit Table 8, opening Wednesday.
From the well-dreadlocked chef behind the same-named LA and
Miami restos, 8's a breezy, bookshelf-lined boite fronted by
a sexily black-tiled, wavy-ceiling'd bar sleeve, all tucked
into the base of the 21 floor marvel-strosity. The mostly
farm- and artisanally-sourced menu boasts one pasta
(linguini w/ parsley, lemon ricotta, and bread crumbs), but
otherwise is evenly split between fish (halibut w/ sugar
snap peas, wild striped bass w/ potato salad) and meat, from
filet mignon w/ confit baby potatoes, to duck w/ sunchoke --
also known as the Jerusalem artichoke, because everybody
wants it. To slosh it all down there's standard
domestic/import bottles, global vino, and signature
cocktails including the Table 8 (vodka, simple syrup, lime
juice, ginger ale, muddled grapes), and a tequila blanco,
lime, ginger, and raspberry puree combo called the Ginger
Diablo -- confirmation that yes, red-headed people are evil
and must be stopped, but not until after this drink.
8's opening for dinner Wednesday, and plans to begin serving
lunch and breakfast soon thereafter -- which'll prompt one
of two reactions, excitement, or puzzlement that there's a
meal that comes before lunch.
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