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2009/06/29

Thrillist Los Angeles: I Want Your Essex

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Thrillist Los Angeles
Monday June 29, 2009

Essex Public House

6683 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood; 323.460.6608

Some classic combos never grow tired, like the fat
dude/skinny sidekick formula that produced comic genius from
Laurel & Hardy, Farley & Spade, and Siskel & Ebert. For the
timeless combo of great beer and great food, check out Essex
Public House.

Opening Wednesday, Essex is a casual gastropub laser-focused
on its menu and beer list, with two distinct interior
sections designed by the Kitchen 24 dude: a patio-looking
entrance room w/ red-brick floor, exposed-duct ceiling, and
two monstrous chalkboards w/ food and drink menus, while
further inside's an oak-topped, wrought-iron-bottomed bar,
surrounded by high-top black leather banquettes and
mismatched light fixtures -- so, much like your grandparents
house, without the sneaking suspicion a Life Alert
commercial is about to go down. Food's from a former Asia De
Cuba chef, and spans all sorts of gourmetness: "Figs in a
Blanket" w/ La Quercia prosciutto & goat cheese fondue; yam
gnocchi w/ smoked duck confit, pea tendrils, and hazelnut
sauce; and chicken and biscuits w/ sweet English peas &
natural gravy, which will taste delicious on your beloved
roll, Bun-derboy. Brew's from the ubiquitous "Beer Chick"
(The Library Bar, Father's Office, etc), who put together a
50+ list including specialty draughts like Lost Coast
Raspberry Wheat, Bruery Black Orchid, and Alesmith Nautical
Nut Brown, bottles like Green Flash Le Freak Belgian IPA,
Chimay Blue, and Hitachino Nest White Ale, and even
hard-to-find and vintage bottles like the dense, dark
Harviestoun OLA Dubh, which was aged in a whiskey barrel for
at least 30 years, so its liver's probably doing worse than
yours.

They're only open for dinner now, but lunch hours'll come
later this month. In other planned changes, the small
patio's currently smoking-only, though they're hoping to
secure permits for drinking out there too, guaranteeing
another classic combo: stocking up on liquid courage before
you bat your eyes winsomely for a cigarette.

Soon, the menu and more info will be at
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