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2009/07/30

Thrillist Miami: How Do You Bite Them Apples?

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Thrillist Miami
Thursday July 30, 2009

Apple Restaurant & Lounge

Now Open: 1437 Washington Ave; South Beach; 305.531.2600

Family pedigree can yield not only god-given talent, but a
real head for the game: Daddy Manning sired two boys into
the NFL, and growing up around your dad has elevated your
inherent gift for not doing the dishes. For a resto enjoying
the benefit of generations of talent, Apple.

From L.A.'s Bryan Ogden, who grew up in the esteemed kitchen
of James Beard Award-winning dad Bradley, Apple gussied up
the former Snatch space (after a two-month delay) and now
feels elegant yet earthy, thanks to solid wood-planked
floors, heavy, vaguely Asian furniture, a polished brick
bar, a glass-walled loft, and cuisine that's called
"Contemporary American" (what, it's got 1.8 kids?). The
menu's updated weekly in reaction to market/season, but
currently the raw bar rocks beauties like Maine lobster tail
and daily market ceviche w/ cilantro & spicy cucumber, while
apps range from pan-roasted diver scallops with celery root
& truffle vinaigrette, to crepes stuffed w/ beef short ribs,
crispy shallots, & grain mustard -- sure to disappoint any
who try to pair it with a watermelon and "parents gone for
weekend". Current entrees encompass a roster of steaks
including 16-oz Prime NY Strip, 8- or 12-oz Angus filet, and
22-oz bone-in Prime ribeye (decked with sauces like a Pinot
Noir reduction, creamy horseradish, and tamarind), and
swordfish w/ lemon orzo and 100 tomatoes, which sounds like
an awful lot, until you realize it's their name.

Cocktails get a culinary edge, like the Apple Samba (green
apple slices, organic wild honey, white peppercorn, Ultimat
Vodka), the Ginger Mojito (fresh sliced ginger, mint leaves,
agave nectar, lime, 10 Cane rum), and one with blueberries,
raspberries, blackberries, thyme, lime, and vodka called the
Very Berry Thyme -- all natural, even though despite his
pedigrees, Bonds is all about being not.

More on Apple here: http://themove.thrillist.com/link.php?M=2181171&N=58095&C=25f0fb7663659a52572fbc99fe5fd818&L=50705

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