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Thrillist New York
Monday March 1, 2010
Tangled Vine
A Catalan-trained chef branches out
434 Amsterdam Ave, at 81st St; Upper West Side; 646.863.3896
Stepping away from a narrow focus can be rewarding -- just
look at Paul Simon, who built on his folk foundation by
incorporating African and Brazilian musical elements...
well, maybe it's not always rewarding. But for some food
that should be, check out The Tangled Vine Wine Bar & Kitchen.
From a Jean Georges-trained former Mercat exec chef who
wanted to branch out from hyper-specific Catalonian fare and
explore other European influences, the centerpiece of
Tangled's cellar-inspired, stone-walled & chandelier'd
corner digs is a mahogany-stained bar book-ended by two
naturally-cooling wine towers made of cast limestone from
Burgundy, which, beyond wine racks, is famous for its
Scotch, cannonballs, and consistently great hair. The bites
begin with country-hopping cheeses/charcuterie, plus various
crostinis (chickpeas & blood sausage, braised
kale/pecorino/quail egg...), before moving to a melange of
larger plates including southern France's pizza-like
pissaladiere (nicoise olives, caramelized onions,
anchovies), an Italianate black truffle risotto made w/
Spanish Calasparra rice, and award-winning Fideos Negros:
pasta w/ garlic aioli, squid ink, and braised cuttlefish,
which you'll keep ordering in hopes that those fish will
finally be ready to sleep with you. Fueling the food fun's a
160-strong seasonal grape-booze menu, cobbled by a NY Times
taster from across the EU (France, Italy, Spain, Austria,
Germany), and featuring 30 glasses plus rotating reserve
wines; to boot, 80% of the bottles are some combo of
organic, sustainable, or biodynamic -- exactly how Stephen
Baldwin and Pauly Shore describe their continued rapport.
To maximize your journey, Vine's offering signature Trios --
flights of three, food-paired, 2oz pours, with themes
including Sherry, Riesling, and oysters, which are so well
complemented they actually prefer the fridge over troubled
waters.
Interested in reading a menu? Prove it.
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-----------------Morning Quickie------------------
^ Taste of Fatty Crew - The UWS Fatty Crab is celebrating
their one year anniversary on Wednesday with a tasting event
and specialty drinks.
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