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Thrillist Philadelphia
Tuesday January 11, 2011
Cantina Feliz
Garces pupils head out on their own
Opening Thurs; 424 S Bethlehem Pike; Fort Washington;
215.646.1320
Every apprentice must learn all they can from the master
before striking out on their own, as Ryan Howard sits in the
dugout watching with father-like pride. Showcasing what
they've learned from their years under one Chef Garces: the
guys behind Cantina Feliz.
From the mind of the former Distrito chef (who also served
as the Iron Chef's sous chef) and Distrito's former drinks
manager, CF's taken over the former Alison Too space,
serving Mexican standards, custom creations, and cocktails
in an interior looking like a cleaned-up roadhouse (thanks,
Dalton!) with desert-toned walls, clay tile floors, four
tops, and a mural of skeletons getting down on Dia De Los
Muertos, presumably thanks to the music coming from those
four tops. Starters include clams & chorizo, calabaza
tamales stuffed w/ butternut squash & mole manchamanteles,
sandal-shaped huaraches topped w/ artichokes or BBQ chicken,
and the shrimp/ scallions/ avocado/ spicy tomato vuelva la
vida, roughly translated as "back to life", also a decision
you make when Stratego proves too daunting. Meanwhile,
big-time dishes offer caldo de res short ribs in a red chile
beef broth w/ garbanzos, chayote, and arbol chiles; black
bass w/ poblano cream, potatoes, spinach, and pearl onions;
and the gloriously gluttonous, slow-roasted, easily
shareable whole suckling pig, separating it from the Ziggy
Pig, which Napoleon refuses to share with Deacon.
Drinks include choice bottles and cans like Isastegi Cider
from Spain, bottles of sparklings, reds, and whites, custom
cocktails, and a healthy smattering of tequila flights --
also what another strikeout master named Pat Burrell refers
to as "flights".
Photos by Daniel M. Schwarz
It's dinner only now, and you can follow cantinafeliz.com
for updates
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-----------------Morning Quickie------------------
^ PBR Poker Tour @ Liberties - Tonight, get started on the
inaugural PBR Poker League, playing over 8 weeks for one of
8 seats in a Borgata-held final.
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