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2011/03/18

CHI: Bucktown's Italian Double-Threat

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Thrillist Chicago
Friday March 18, 2011

Antico
Housemade sausage and fresh pasta in Bucktown
Cafe opens Sat, March 19th, dinner starts Wed, March 23rd: 1946 N Leavitt, btwn Armitage and Homer; Bucktown; 773.489.4395

Being a double threat always makes people take notice -- for instance, Michael Vick wouldn't have been the number one pick if he wasn't able to give opposing players herpes AND murder their dogs. For a much more pleasant double threat, hit Antico.

Named for the antique shop that preceded it, Antico's a Euro-style cafe by day that transforms into a locally sourced trattoria at night, all happening in a casual 50-seat storefront with exposed brick, spherical glass lighting, and hickory floors, which are usually built on a foundation of Chitwood. Mornings keep it simple, with house-roasted espresso made from globally sourced beans, nutmeg-spiced zeppoli, and truffled eggs served with polenta for those eating in, or, if you're on the go, in a baguette, which ironically makes eating it less of a pain. The constantly changing dinner menu, meanwhile, starts off with housemade sausage w/ mostarda & braised cabbage; fresh soft-wheat spaghetti with wild mushrooms; and saffron polenta topped with Amarone short ribs that've marinated for two days, a level of lethargy that isn't surprising given all that wine.

To wash things down there're 80-plus bottles of Italian vino (10 by the glass), with an emphasis on some of the country's lesser-known regions, specialization that would be less appetizing were they sourced from Ron, Mexico.

Later this spring they're also unveiling a 40-seat patio. In the meantime, book your table at AnticoChicago.com.
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