Sweeping across France aboard a train à grande vitesse (TGV) projects wonderful views: an Impressionistic blur of countryside, punctuated by farmhouses and church steeples against a corrugated horizon. The interior is usually quiet: headphones are de rigueur for anyone watching or listening to a device. Anyone attempting a phone conversation is shushed and directed to the vestibule. But some parts of the train are now more serene than others. Yesterday I revealed that French Railways (SNCF) has banned children from the poshest seats on its TGV expresses. Starting this month, high-speed trains running to and from Paris between Monday and Friday boast an exclusive area of first-class known as Optimum, offering a "quiet, dedicated space on board". To provide "a calm journey, ideal for working or relaxing", under-12s are regarded as sub-optimal and banned from Optimum. Nor can they wander noisily past: "The carriage is located at the end of the train to prevent other passengers from walking through." The implication that "hell is other people's children" (as Jean-Paul Sartre never quite said) provoked a fast and furious response from outraged families. SNCF clarified on Instagram: "Our Optimum offer occupies less than 8 per cent of the space on a TGV, and only from Monday to Friday. So 92 per cent of the seats are available to everyone – and 100 per cent at weekends." The scenery outside the train may be gentle, but the competitive landscape is getting rough. French Railways competes against airlines (the supposed ban on short domestic flights has had a negligible effect). The national railways of Spain and now Italy are muscling in. Competition on intercity transport works for everyone, lowering fares and improving service. If SNCF wants to bring in a few super-premium tickets on the promise of some sérénité for those on expenses, I am happy to be cross-subsidised at my second class seat.
Families, meanwhile, can opt for the French Railways budget brand, Ouigo – where fares for children are capped at €8, and under-fours travel free. So I think the "no kids" move is a reasonable idea. Not so Mark Smith, the international rail guru known as the Man in Seat 61, who told me: "I have often said, SNCF does what it thinks its customers ought to want, whether they like it or not." Cast your vote on the "enfants: terrible" ban further along in this newsletter. Red tape: All you need to know on EU entry-exit system and Etias Son of Concorde? Former BA chief pilot predicts supersonic return in 2050
Off the map: Extreme tour operator assailed by geo-politics Train safety: After another rail tragedy in Spain, I assess the stats |
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Bon voyage: French Railways comprise one of the joys of travel |
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As the Boeing 737 sat stubbornly on the apron at Leeds Bradford Airport before dawn on Wednesday, I surmised nobody was thinking: "I do hope there's fast Wi-Fi on board." On everyone's mind was something rather more analogue. "The alarm went off at silly o'clock this morning," we all internalised. "Then I got myself to the airport, through the security search and to the gate in good time. Can't we just fly to Dublin so I can get on with my day?" Ryanair flight FR153 took off half an hour late due to a technical fault. Those 30 lost minutes were critical to my neighbour in row two, who was on a "self-connect" at Dublin Airport to another Ryanair flight, to Funchal. She had booked two separate tickets, knowing that disruption could jeopardise her journey. Instead of a comfortable 80 minutes to transfer, her connection became touch-and-go. I last saw her hurtling towards Flight Connections at the Irish airport. Meanwhile I missed the start of my 10am rendezvous in Dublin. But if you are delayed by a Ryanair flight, it helps if you are going to meet the airline's boss. I arrived in time to quiz Michael O'Leary about the bizarre feud with Elon Musk. The row that has rumbled on all week stems from the Ryanair CEO's refusal to install Mr Musk's Starlink system on his fleet of Boeing 737s because of cost and complexity. The pair started trading insults. The proprietor of Tesla, X and SpaceX called Mr O'Leary an idiot and contemplated buying Ryanair. The Ryanair boss called the social media site X "a cess-pit". On Tuesday night the airline launched a "Big 'Idiot' Seat Sale". By Wednesday the Ryanair boss had offered an olive branch to Mr Musk in the shape of a free ticket; I am not sure the world's richest man was too impressed. Meanwhile Mr O'Leary has taken up my suggestion of an arm-wrestling contest to settle the dispute, and has issued a challenge for a test of strength. On X I conducted a poll on who should win; the Ryanair CEO received more than twice as many votes as Elon Musk, but was still only narrowly ahead of the third option: "Neither of them/The table." I flew back from Ireland on British Airways (which also left half-an-hour late due to a technical problem). The plane was fitted with Wi-Fi. I didn't try it. |
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Should children be banned from first-class train carriages? |
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SNCF has sparked a backlash after introducing a child-free section in its premium carriages. On weekday TGV services to and from Paris, a first-class area known as Optimum bars passengers under 12. Should children be banned from the carriage, or should travel with children be better accommodated? Vote using the buttons above. The results from last week's poll suggest enthusiasm for supersonic travel is limited. Despite the nostalgia around Concorde and the promise of a 3h30m London to New York flight, nearly two thirds of respondents (63%) said they were not tempted by Boom Supersonic's proposed £4,000 return fare. |
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Rail closures for London and Manchester |
Network Rail engineering work in late January and February will cause widespread disruption for passengers travelling to and from London and Manchester. The East Coast Main Line will close between London King's Cross and Peterborough over four weekends: 31 January–1 February, 7–8 February, 14–15 February (Valentine's Day will remain open), and 21–22 February. Passengers can use Thameslink trains between London St Pancras International and Bedford, with rail replacement buses to and from Peterborough. East Midlands Railway warns that trains between London and Yorkshire "will be busier than usual" and that a queuing system will operate at London St Pancras for services to Nottingham and Sheffield. Between 14 and 22 February, the southern approach to Manchester Piccadilly will close, with almost all trains cancelled. Rail replacement buses will run between the station and Stockport. On the West Coast Main Line, Warrington Bank Quay and Wigan North Western will remain open, offering easier access to parts of Greater Manchester. |
Balkan border blockade on Monday |
Truck drivers in Bosnia, Montenegro, North Macedonia and Serbia are coordinating protests at key Balkan road frontiers with EU nations on Monday 26 January. The Foreign Office warns: "If you are planning cross-border travel, check local media before travelling and plan ahead to avoid disruption to your journey." The drivers are unhappy about the effect on their livelihoods of the new EU entry-exit system, which is intended to enforce the rule that third-country nationals cannot stay more than 90 days in any 180 days in the Schengen area. They fear the new centralised system could see them refused entry or accused of overstaying. |
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We're thinking of going to Egypt in the autumn to see the Grand Egyptian Museum and the archeological sites. In 40 years we've never been on a package tour. Can we wing it on our own for transport, hotels, etc, and finding local guides where necessary? |
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That's quite the record. Evidently putting together trips has worked well for you over the decades, and you must be excellent at travel logistics. Allow me, though, to try to persuade you that an organised visit is just what you need. Egypt is full of wonders, and Cairo is one of the world's most exciting cities. But it is also chaotic and confusing – and much easier to enjoy with a little help from some on-the-ground friends.
Last time I travelled there, I bought a tailor-made trip from Discover Egypt; other specialists are available. With decades of experience in tourism to Cairo and beyond, the firm has strong links with a ground operator who will look after clients – from meeting them at the airport, often as they exit the aircraft, to recommending areas and eateries worth exploring after dark.
The benefits go well beyond simple logistics: the local guides will also help maximise your appreciation of the abundance of wonders in Cairo, and take you to rewarding locations that many tourists miss. Yes, it is more expensive – and if the trip has gone well, you really should tip generously. But in terms of the overall investment:reward ratio, I find paying for the expert touch worthwhile. One more aspect to consider: tourism is a really important way to transfer wealth from richer countries to poorer nations, and a good way to do that is to employ a local or two to upgrade your experience. |
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| Discover there's much more to Downton Abbey than Highclere Castle. You and a companion will take to London's historic streets on a guided walking tour, visiting iconic filming locations where the award-winning series was brought to life. Learn more. |
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