A couple of summers back, I needed to reach the beach town of Hossegor on the southwest coast of France, and since I had a few days to spare, rather than booking a cheap flight, I put the dog in the back of the car and hit the road. We crossed the Channel using Le Shuttle (a seamless experience, even with a pup in tow) and wove our way down the country using a little-thought out route, picking places to stay as we went.
Perhaps a risky strategy, but across the three days that we meandered from north to south, I discovered a whole other side to a country I thought I knew so well. Highlights were wandering along the riverbank in Normandy’s Saint-Ouen-sous-Bailly, east of Dieppe; and bedding down at a rambling old farmhouse at La Mothe Saint Heray in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, where the owner armed me with a big stick “in case you bump into boars” on our walk the next morning. Both destinations I would highly recommend – and both places I never would have initially considered for a France holiday. It turns out even the old favourites can surprise you.
|
|
|
Le Mans hadn't previously been on my city break list, but during chance stop to stretch my legs while passing through I was entranced by the beautifully preserved medieval old town, scenic river banks and cobblestone lanes. Even better, it can be reached by train from Paris in under an hour.
|
|
|
|
|
|
I would like to think that, as a travel writer, I could appreciate a landmark or a landscape simply by viewing it in the moment in all its glory. This crossed my mind when I was in Paris last month in front of the Eiffel Tower, with its wrought-iron lattice arms reaching up to a point in the sky – but the itch of the camera button in my hand was too much to bear: I felt I must take that picture.
I was in the neighbourhood of Passy, found within the central 16th arrondissement, but still relatively undiscovered by tourists as it's overlooked by the main thoroughfares directly surrounding the Eiffel Tower.
We spent an afternoon wandering round the cobbled streets of Passy, which was once a village before it was swallowed by the city, admiring the uniform Haussmann architecture, stopping at an indoor market for a crepe and finding undisturbed places to snap pictures of the Tower. The best part: there were no crowds, no battling with other tourists for viral bakeries, or waiting for Instagrammers to clear from scenic viewpoints to have a look ourselves.
While Paris is by no means a “hidden gem” – and I may be no better than the average tourist when it comes to snapping pictures – I learned there’s so much more to the city than the heavily touristed hotspots of Montmartre, Saint-Germain-des-PrĂ©s and Le Marais, and it’s worth looking beyond the obvious.
|
|
|
|
Maison de Balzac has a quiet courtyard with a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower (Getty Images)
|
|
|
|
|
Outside of the capital, my colleague, senior travel writer Natalie Wilson, told me one of her favourite destinations to visit in France is Marseille.
“France’s gorgeously gritty second city has found its rightful place on travel itineraries after being named Europe’s ‘most authentic’ destination,” she said. “Here, bowls of Bouillabaisse fish stew steam the alleyways of orange-hued Le Panier, boats sail the crystal depths of the Calanques National Park, and the waterfront MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations) dances as an open-air concert venue come summer.”
We’ve collected many more recommendations on how to beat the busiest of crowds in France this summer. Flora Medford explored the Occitania region and fell in love with its cheap train travel, ancient ruins and national parks. Rosamund Hall also told us of her list of micro-adventures as she travelled the country by car and discovered historical Arras, the enchanting village of Lyons-la-ForĂªt, and the tree-filled town of BrantĂ´me en PĂ©rigord. Meanwhile, Matt Dennis swapped Disneyland Paris for the cheaper and quieter Parc AstĂ©rix just outside the capital.
Whether you have Parisian plans this summer or want to venture further afield, we’ve got you covered for summer getaways in France.
Read about Amelia's trip to Passy in Paris
Do you have any French favourites we may not have considered? Get in touch and let me know at annabel.grossman@independent.co.uk.
|
|
|
|
Discover the enchanting landscapes and rich history of Scotland, Ireland, and England for less with this Holland America voyage. Originally priced from £2,259, this sailing is now available from just £1,199 per person.
Departing from Dover on 21 August, you'll sail aboard the elegant Nieuw Statendam and enjoy a range of entertainment, onboard activities and dining. Learn more.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Unwind in the countryside at the highly rated Thatchers Hotel, a charming Tudor-style retreat surrounded by scenic walking trails.
|
|
|
|
|
We've spotted bargain Malta holidays at On the Beach, with stays at highly rated four-star hotels. Based on UK departures in September 2026.
|
|
|
|
|
Enjoy an adult-only escape with Warner Hotels for less, including fantastic extras such as nightly entertainment.
|
|
|
I recently enjoyed a 10-night road trip around France with my family. To avoid the hassle of flying with my young son, we took the ferry from Dover to Calais and brought our car with us. It made travelling much easier – no airport queues, baggage restrictions or hauling suitcases from place to place.
Some of the highlights included visiting the magnificent Hall of Mirrors at the Palace of Versailles, seeing Mont Saint-Michel rise dramatically from the sea and exploring the cobbled streets and soaring spires of Rouen. We also loved spending time in the walled city of Saint-Malo, where we enjoyed delicious French cuisine and spectacular coastal views. One pleasant surprise was how affordable accommodation was outside of Paris, making the trip better value than expected.
The weather was a tale of two seasons – we started the trip in coats and ended it in T-shirts. One item that proved particularly useful was my lightweight trench coat from Sweaty Betty, which was easy to layer when temperatures dipped but light enough for warmer days. Alongside my trusty Kono suitcase, I packed an Antler weekend bag for the essentials I wanted close at hand. My husband, meanwhile, relied heavily on his Tile Bluetooth finder to keep tabs on his frequently misplaced car keys – not ideal when you're responsible for all the driving! And although we weren't flying, I still packed a pair of travel socks, which were perfect for easing foot fatigue after long days of sightseeing.
|
|
|
Join the conversation and follow us
|
|
|
Please do not reply directly to this email
You are currently registered to receive The Independent's Travel newsletter.
To unsubscribe from The Independent's Travel newsletter, or to manage your email preferences please click here.
This e-mail was sent by Independent Digital News and Media Ltd, 14-18 Finsbury Square, London EC2A 1AH. Registered in England and Wales with company number 07320345
Read our privacy policy and cookie policy
|
|
|
|
No comments:
Post a Comment
Keep a civil tongue.