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2009/05/15

Thrillist Atlanta: Knockin' On Haven's Door

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Thrillist Atlanta
Friday May 15, 2009

WaterHaven

75 5th St NW, Midtown; 404.214.6740

Sure, global perspective's important -- without CNN's trusty
anchors we'd never get to the bottom of unrest in Pakistan
-- but then again, without local TV, how would Mayor
Campbell have gotten to the bottom of Marion Brooks?
Replacing global food with local, WaterHaven.

A relaxed, farm-to-table-minded restaurant from a
Memphis-educated, Wolfgang Puck-instructed chef, Haven has
taken over the former Globe space and decked it with
mustard-olive green walls, a long zinc bar, and a stone
waterwall, while retaining America's largest installation of
Jasper Morrison Glo-Balls -- dangling from the ceiling like
so many tiny moons, or like so many large balls. The
regionally sourced menu starts with apps like spicy shrimp &
saffron grit cakes and fried green tomatoes w/ poblano goat
cheese & pumpkin pesto; lunchtime sandwiches include the
Steak (sliced flatiron, Havarti, onion rings), the OT Egg
("old-time" style w/ white bread, boiled eggs, mayo), and
the Fried Chicken: lightly fried with house-made slaw and
country ham -- as in Congress, the pork was slipped in
unannounced. Dinner gets fatter & fancier, with slow-cooked
Lamb Pappardelle, a sauteed, breaded Pork Loin Chop (w/
Vidalia marmalade), and Braised Oxtails served "naturally
juiced" (then again, don't all oxes say that?).

The taps are dominated by ATL stalwarts (three Sweetwaters:
420, Sweet GA Brown, Road Trip), while bottles include Full
Sail and Terrapin; there're also 50+ wines, plus cocktails
like the Fifth St. Fizz (sloe gin, lemon juice, ginger beer)
and the Yellow Jacket: Four Roses Whiskey, Drambuie, OJ,
lemon, and Dragon Berry vodka -- though if dragons are
eating berries, then can someone get to the bottom of what
happened to all the virgins?

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