An Ignoble Experiment: Thrillist Chicago: Mex-n-Effect

2009/05/04

Thrillist Chicago: Mex-n-Effect

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Thrillist Chicago
Monday May 4, 2009

La Fonda Del Gusto

1408 N Milwaukee Ave, between Wolcott and Evergreen; Wicker
Park; 773.278.6100

Family tradition shouldn't be abandoned, but it should
evolve -- otherwise, millions of Americans would spend
December in a sleigh, grinding down a Phoenix highway
towards Xmas at grandmother's house. Respectfully evolving,
La Fonda Del Gusto, open today.

Run by a husband/wife team, Fonda's a low price point
($2-$16) Mexican joint built into the same space the wife's
aunt's resto occupied for 15 years; now revamped with
multi-colored walls and five kingly elevated booths, they're
serving a selection of the aunt's standbys, husband/wife
collaborations and, soon, seasonal Southern-Mex "peasant
food" from the husband's nonetheless well-fed youth.
Aunt-grub includes classic carne asada-, barbacoa-,
chicken-, chorizo-, and El Pastor-stuffed tacos, burritos,
tortas, and enchiladas, plus a selection of Huaraches -- the
Mexican pizza, not the Mexican sandal, because why order
that when you could eat it at home? Meanwhile, the collabs
are higher end, like seared red snapper w/ Veracruz sauce,
shrimp sauteed in spicy tequila-lime butter, and grilled
Atlantic salmon w/ roasted poblano cream; peasant grub's
repped by "Albondigas de Jalisco" (savory meatballs in rich
tomato/herb broth) and deep-fried quesadillas stuffed with
Mexican zucchini flowers and veggies, and topped with
braised pork carnitas -- or "little meats", so now you know
your Spanish nickname too.