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2009/08/31

Thrillist New York: Buenos Voces

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Thrillist New York
Monday August 31, 2009

A Voce Columbus

10 Columbus Circle, 3rd fl; Lincoln Square; 212.823.2523

For every profession there's an address that announces
ultimate success; banks have Wall Street, tailors Savile
Row, and for hotels, Boardwalk, bitches! Announcing their
ascension within the halls of the Time Warner Center, A Voce
Columbus.

Planting a new operation in NYC's culinary Olympus, Voce's
unleashing novel takes on their multi-starred contemporary
Italian to celebrate their arrival in an airy, spartanly
upscale, vista-windowed modern-Milanese dining room,
bolstered by a slightly elevated lounge whose light wood
bar's sided with ornately patterned dark brown leather
reminiscent of the Necronomicon...Collector's Edition. Aside
from a select few antipasti and dolci the chow's entirely
new, kicking off with veggie bites like grilled zucchini w/
mint & firm ricotta, pickled baby fennel, and summer
shelling beans w/ rapini pesto, plus a painstakingly sourced
array of salumi, with Italian imports like translucent
lardo, tuna prosciutto drizzled in olive oil, and a
spreadable, spicy Calabrian salami called nduja rounded out
by homegrowns wild boar cacciatorini from NYC's own
Salumeria Biellese, and organic coppa from Iowa that would
be delicious Hayden Fry'd. Antipasti's highlighted by crispy
homemade salt cod w/ olives/raisins/pinenuts, as well as
Madison Sq-holdover fried dough stuffed with Swiss chard &
cresenza cheese and plated w/ prosciutto; carb-crushing
Primi range from hand-crafted spaghetti smothered in crab,
leeks, & lemon sea urchin butter, to orecchiette laden w/
roasted pork jowl/soffritto/arugula, and Secondi move from
branzino w/ heirloom tomatoes & caper pesto, to grilled lamb
chops w/ lamb sausage and Umbrian lentils, to a fennel/chili
marinated brick chicken, who's 36-24-36 figure once served
as a lusty muse for the Commodores.

The cascade of daddy juice starts with a mind-bending 3000+
wines, digestivs including amaros and limencello, and
cocktails like lavender gimlets, the "New Fashioned"
(Bulleit/Angostura & orange bitters/Concord grape
juice/brandied cherries), and the Jameson/amaretto/Sprite
"Irish Italiano" -- 'cause no matter your national address,
you've still got to obey your thirst, bitches!

Soft opening starts on the 9th, but they're taking
reservations now, so call up and get yours


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