Last January I found myself in the remarkable position of standing in front of the Treasury at Petra almost completely alone. Aside from a few sleepy-looking camels and a couple of other tourists gazing at the marvels of this ancient wonder, it was just me in the Rose City. In years gone by, the Treasury and the 1.2km Al Siq canyon leading to it would have been filled almost shoulder-to-shoulder with tourists, while other travellers across the country would have been soaking in the Dead Sea, exploring mosaics in the streets of Madaba, and camping out under the stars at Wadi Rum. Sadly, geopolitical events have deterred visitors from putting Jordan on their travel agenda. As I watched one local woman cook the traditional mansaf dish at her house on the outskirts of Petra, she told me: “Here we pray for rain … and we pray for tourists.”
There was hope during my visit that the flow of visitors would resume, but Trump’s war against Iran dealt a hammer blow to Jordan tourism. Following the US and Israeli strikes on Iran that started on February 28, the Foreign Office (FCDO) advised against all but essential travel to most of Jordan (except the area within 3km of the border with Syria which remained under an advisory against all travel). Although some flights continued to Amman and a handful of tour operators continued to run trips, the FCDO advice would have spooked most tourists. It’s also worth noting that your travel insurance could be invalidated if you travel against advice from the Foreign Office.
So I was pleased this week to see that the FCDO removed the “non-essential” travel advisory, making it far easier and more tempting for UK travellers to look to the Middle East for a holiday. My experience of Jordan – one that is shared by the vast majority of travellers – is that it is a safe, affordable and wonderfully welcoming country. While British Airways flights to Amman remain suspended until October 25 and Wizz Air has yet to restart flying the route, the very pleasant Royal Jordanian airline continues to fly in and out of the capital. Even better, as the country works to encourage tourists back, you’ll likely find some excellent deals on hotels and tours – as well as being able to enjoy some of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes and ancient sites free from crowds. For example, right now in Wadi Musa, the gateway to Petra, you can book a decent three-star hotel for under £50 a night. Group tours are also pleasingly affordable: Intrepid’s eight-day Explore Jordan trip currently starts at £919, while G Adventures has an eight-day Highlights of Jordan trip for £790.
I suspect that the return of tourism to Jordan will be slow, but I do hope the current trickle turns into a tide. In the meantime, with low prices and no crowds, now could be the ideal time to enjoy the marvels of this part of the Middle East.
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Fuel supply issues at Scottish airports
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What travellers need to know about Ebola
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Advice for anyone travelling to Africa
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Missed flight due to border queues
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Hebrides island forced to close on Sundays
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Train routes with the worst connectivity
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As the world marks the centennial of Marilyn Monroe’s birth, Ellie Seymour takes a tour of her former residences.
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An expedition cruise of Indonesia takes in rarely-visited Asmat villages and the Coral Triangle.
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Alto Adige is home to a fascinating cultural mash-up and some of the world’s greatest family hotels.
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It was Simon who always referred to travel as “the industry of human happiness”. Now as I write the newsletter that Mr Calder helmed for so many years, it is a phrase that sticks with me. For me, like Simon, travel is about joy – be that adventure, intrigue, exploration or relaxation – and that is something I’m keen to continue to bring to as many readers as possible through Independent Travel’s articles and newsletters. Whether you’re planning a long-awaited retirement trip, booking your first solo getaway after a divorce, looking for a resort with an excellent kids club, are after a brilliant deal on a package holiday, or need an LGBTQ+-friendly hotel for a city break, we hope to inspire and facilitate your travels.
At the same time, I believe that travel can – and should – bring benefits to the places we visit. In fact, I can’t think of many more efficient ways of shifting cash from wealthy to not-so-wealthy countries, not to mention the cultural exchange, job creation, and infrastructure investment that tourism (when done well) brings to a host country.
Of course, as we grapple with border queues caused by EES, disruption from wars in Ukraine and the Middle East, jet fuel shortages, confusion over passport dates – to name just a few issues – the joy can quickly be diluted. So with my excellent colleagues on the Travel Desk, we’re committed to ensuring our readers have the most accurate, honest and up-to-date travel advice and information based on our experiences and informed by knowledge from industry experts.
I’m always keen to hear your questions, thoughts and concerns (or even just to swap travel tales) so feel free to drop me an email.
The places the Independent Travel hope to visit in 2026
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Would you arrive at the airport three hours early to avoid EES delays?
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Following Wizz Air’s advice to arrive at the airport three hours before your flight departs, this week I want to know if you’re heading to the terminal early to avoid EU Entry-Exit System (EES) delays. Are you arriving at the airport just in time to fly? Or is less than three hours in departures cutting it too fine? Vote by selecting the buttons above.
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When it comes to getting around on holiday, Travel Insider readers were narrowly in favour of local taxis over ride-hailing apps. A slim majority – 51 per cent – said they prefer to use local cabs and pay by the meter rather than rely on services such as Uber or Lyft, suggesting that traditional taxis continue to hold their appeal when travelling abroad.
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Avoiding fuel surcharges on your cruise
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Could steep fuel costs impact the price of your cruise? This week our cruise writer Marc Shoffman spoke with the boss of MSC Cruises who reassured him that the cruise line would not add fuel surcharges this summer. Antonio Paradiso, managing director of UK, Ireland and Australia for MSC Cruises, told Marc that they would consider all other options, including shortening routes, before passing on the increased cost of fuel to customers.
Other cruise lines – including P&O cruises, Princess Cruises and Cunard – have stated that they are not currently making changes to prices, but it is worth noting that cruise lines are within their rights to add fuel surcharges to most trips. Under Package Travel Regulations, which cover most cruises, travel firms can charge more if “the price of the carriage of passengers resulting from the cost of fuel” has risen. There is no limit to the surcharge, but if it is eight per cent or higher of the total cost of your holiday, you are within your rights to cancel the cruise and get your money back.
Unsurprisingly, Mr Paradiso did not rule out future surcharges. As with other cruise lines, MSC will be watching closely to see how the conflict in the Middle East plays out before making any further reassurances to customers. Mr Paradiso said that any changes would depend on how long the war goes on for – if it’s any more than another five or six months, the cruise line may need to make “a few tweaks”.
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Sunshine, holidays and long weekends are finally on the horizon – and no matter where you’re heading, sunscreen deserves a place in your bag alongside your passport. Whether you’re jetting off to turquoise seas and warmer climates or planning a staycation by the British coast, the right SPF can make all the difference between a relaxing day in the sun and an uncomfortable sunburn.
To help you find the best protection, I’ve tested dozens of lotions, sprays and mists to round up the 11 best body sunscreens for summer travel, beach days and everyday adventures.
Looking for facial SPF too? One of the most important skincare essentials, a good face sunscreen is a travel must-have. In our testing, Heliocare 360 gel oil-free SPF50 came out on top and is reduced to £23 at Amazon. For a more budget-friendly option, Dr PawPaw’s SPF50 day cream impressed us just as much and is currently almost half price at just £8.
With warmer weather arriving across the UK and holiday season approaching, many of us are planning everything from weekend breaks to overseas escapes. If you’re refreshing your travel kit, we love this Longchamp tote bag – stylish, lightweight and roomy enough for everything from airport essentials to beach-day necessities. Meanwhile, this tried-and-tested M&S cabin suitcase has 30% off, making it a great time to upgrade your hand luggage.
And if your summer plans involve scenic walks, seaside picnics or countryside staycations, don't miss our roundup of the best supermarket picnic foods – perfect for park lunches, road-trip snacks and outdoor dining on the go.
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Take out an Independent Premium subscription and unlock expert travel analysis, insider tips and the best deals to help you make the most of every trip.
Join now with our introductory offer: just £1 for 7 months
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Set sail for less with Ambassador Cruise Line and save up to 20% on selected sailings. Discover exciting destinations, savour delicious full-board cuisine and enjoy outstanding value, whether you're planning a short escape or a longer voyage.
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Includes breakfast, a bottle of prosecco and late checkout at the highly rated White Hart Hotel.
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Choose from Halkidiki, Corfu, Zante, Crete and beyond. Based on London departures on selected dates throughout September 2026.
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Stay at Good Hotel, offering stylish accommodation on Royal Victoria Dock with easy access to ExCeL, The O2 and central London.
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